You can google up the process and watch videos galore on youtoob. It is added as an electrolyte, to make the water more conductive. I do not recall the exact ratio of baking soda that I used. Truly satisfying!Ī "before" shot of files going in, then one of them being cleaned. I then took it apart and re-dipped the pieces for a few more hours. This four jaw chuck was in the tank for about an hour and most of the rust was gone. It will not harm the "good" metal under the rust. I like being able to handle the items without the "messy" detergents. I have read that Arm and Hammer detergent is recommended, but plain old sodium bicarbonate has been working very well for me. The rusty piece is connected to the negative and there is another piece of "iron" hung connected to the positive lead. The rusty bits are hung in a solution of baking soda and water and a battery charger is used to do the work. A light washing with a brush and they look like new. It does a WONDERFUL job on clogged rusty files! It floats much of the crud right out of the teeth. like a newly acquired-used Tii exhaust manifold. I recently set up an eight gallon trash bucket to be able to dip larger items. I am most excited about using electrolysis.
Media blasting is awesome in some situations, but can be harmful if the right media is not used. The coarse one knocks off the chunky bits and the fine one gets into all the pits and leaves a nice luster. Starting with a light touch on a coarser wheel followed by a heavier touch on a fine wheel works best for me. I do like wire wheels, but a variety of them are required. Wire wheels can work in some situations, but one of my pet-peeves is when a wire wheel is used in an attempt to remove rust and what is under the loose stuff gets smeared into a shiny bumpy surface. TobyB referred to an Eastwood product specifically designed to do this, which would probably work better. I have poured it into seams, hoping it will wick in and convert what rust is in there. I feel like it does protect the surface, to some extent, after treatment as opposed to the washes, which leave bare "new" metal. Any blisters or scabs of rust that are not picked off, trap air and will rust again under the paint. Ospho is a product I have used to prep for paint, but is a "rust converter" as opposed to a "rust dissolver." The acid used is Phosphoric. I have not tried it yet, but want to mix up a solution using acid crystals/detergent, as they are cheap and readily available. I read the label and it is 5% Oxalic Acid with detergents. The rusty areas are basically clean gray steel. It is really fun to wipe the rust out of old painted tins and tool boxes and such. It does a very nice job on things with light rust, especially when a delicate touch is desired as it will not hurt what paint is left intact. It is called "Rust-Off" and was $15 for a quart. I purchased a spray bottle of (what appears to be) a similar product from a paint store. I am curious, what type of acid is in the jug you bought? There are several fixes in a bottle out there worth considering. RUST!!! One of my favorite topics! Thank you for bringing it up.
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